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Tuesday, April 10, 2007

Greece

Travis and I just returned from our 10 day trip to Greece, it truly was a relaxing time for both of us. About 48 hours before heading home it hit us - the PILE of stuff we both have to do in the next few days/weeks/months. I have a short week here before heading off on my next trip, home to Denver, and Travis has looming deadlines and big projects ahead of him. The whole plane ride home (except the part where Travis was napping) we were both making mental and actual lists of things to do!

If you notice brownouts in the Blackrock area of Dublin over the next 2 days it's because I'm doing non-stop laundry...those of you who have visited or who live here will understand...
While in Greece we toured Athens for a few days and then sailed out to the Greek island of Santorini. If you pay attention to international news you may have seen the clip of the cruise ship that sank there last week - read about it on CNN's website at: http://edition.cnn.com/2007/WORLD/europe/04/05/greece.cruiseship.ap/index.html
It was crazy to watch, the ship completely sank during the night. We didn't know any of this as the only immediate news about the ship was all in Greek. The 2 english speaking news stations that we got on TV didn't pick up the story right away so it took a while to get any details. The day after we watched people being unloaded we noticed the ship was gone, little did we know at the time that it was because it was totally underwater.

Here's a map of our island stay in Santorini to get you oriented. We stayed in Fira which is at the center of the island shaped like a backwards 'C'. Santorini used to look a lot different, it only had one very small channel to the sea with a small water filled caldera in the center of a ring shaped island. Then about 3600 years ago the (inhabited) island experienced a violent volcanic eruption where the 2 major channels you see today were formed. After the big explosion the smaller islands in the center of the bay started to form, but didn't do much until the 1800s when the bigger of the 2 became very active and grew considerably. The last eruption (these are slow, thick eruptions) was in the 1950s.

Other locations to note - the cruise ship that sank started out in the water just below Fira and was moved just a little bit south, between Fira and the port of Athinios, where it finally sank completely.Oia is the town at the northern end of the big island. That's the first town we saw when coming in on the ferry and is also where we first saw the tilting ship.All of the beaches are on the 'outside' of the island, or the east side. The fantastic cliffs face in toward the bay and the new islands that are forming.

Arriving on Santorini we were delivered directly to our hotel. This is the view looking south from our hotel. You can see how all of the buildings just tumble down the cliff face. There's a street at the top of this hill and some more on the backside, but everything you see here is accessed by pedestrian or donkey routes. Your hotel lobby is normally up on the street and the rooms go down the hill. Our first room was a great, quiet room that was WAY at the bottom of the steps. Physically I'm still OK with a lot of steps but these were really small, very steep, and often slanted and damp (stone steps). Travis played his pregnant wife card (used a lot on this trip) to get us a room higher up. Not as quiet, but a very nice room that was less nerve racking for both of us to get to! You should see how Travis' reflexes have improved since I've become an expectant mother. He grabs at me every time I trip or stumble (which was often even before I got pregnant and he never seemed to worry about me then :) ).

Our new room! It was so cute. It's the one at the top of the flight of orange stairs. You can see our green shutters that are open. We had our own private deck, it's just to the left. You might be able to pick out the wood supports that held the canopy over our little piece of paradise.

Our rental car! We rented a car for one day to check out the rest of the island (all 25km of it) and to see the beaches. If you've seen the movie 'A Good Year' the tiny SmartCar is referred to as a rollerskate. We truly understood that line after driving around in this car. It did, however, have a surprising amount of power. Likely not difficult to achieve as there isn't much car to motor around.P.S. If you haven't seen 'A Good Year' it's a surprisingly good movie.

One of our stops as we drove around the island was Oia. At the main port on Santorini, Athinios, there is a road from the sea to the top of the cliffs. At the port in Fira there is a path, donkey trail, and a small cable car. At Oia, if you want to get from the harbor to the top of the cliff, where most of town is, you have to hoof it. There is a road that wraps around the northern edge of the island (which is how we got down there) but it's a really roundabout way to get to town.

For all the pictures, click on the slide show to get it started:

So, Greece was fun. I'm looking forward to my trip home, it seems a lot of people have been heading home lately and it's been fun to have my own trip to look forward to. I'll miss Travis like crazy, but this trip will be shorter than my one alone this summer. Plus we've got the cheap international phone call system up and running so it will be easier to actually talk to each other.

Tuesday, March 20, 2007

St Patrick's Day in Ireland

Our friend Rich came for a long weekend at the beginning of March and requested a trip to the Ring of Kerry in the SW of our little island. Of course he didn't have to twist our arm very hard!
Ring of Kerry with Rich:


A few days after Rich's departure Travis' sister Suzie and her husband James came for a week long visit that wrapped up with a day out in Dublin on St. Patrick's Day! We had a blast, even as the weather changed from nice and mild to cold and windy. We even had snow on the 2 days following their departure. Good thing they boogied out of here when they did. Yes, we did it! St. Patrick's Day in Ireland. What fun it was, even though we did a low key day. Of course, like all obnoxious Americans at the parade we donned our silly hats, although as the wind picked up it was difficult to keep them on our heads.

The parade was fun, very colorful and having grandstand seats made all the difference for us. I got to sit for 2 1/2 hours instead of being bumped and elbowed in the crowds and we all were a little protected from the rapidly deteriorating weather by the partial enclosure surrounding our grandstand. It was also nice to have the commentators explain what a lot of the groups were and what their costumes were supposed to be.
Tuesday, March 6, 2007

Yummy Brussel Sprouts

This picture was taken at the end of January, but I like it so much I'm putting it up anyway. This was taken at the farmer's market in Howth and that's a brussel sprout stalk we are holding. I realize most people pass on brussel sprouts, but Travis and I both like them so we gave the fresh ones a try.

Man were they good! Best brussel sprouts I've ever had. Penny trimmed them for us and we steamed them and tossed with a tiny bit of butter and salt. I think we paid about 2euro for the entire stalk and it was more than enough for the three of us plus leftovers.
Wednesday, February 21, 2007

Lazy Days in Blackrock

Travis and I had a quiet weekend at home this past weekend. In case any of you are worried about Travis and his workload please note that he still has time for some good naps every now and then :) The lovely blanket that he is sleeping under is a famous Donegal Tweed blanket that we acquired in Ardara on our trip to the north. We learned (hopefully the truth) that Donegal tweed was once considered a lower grade of tweed b/c it had flecks of color in it that we considered flaws. At some point the flaws became desirable and now Donegal tweed is quite desirable to those who know tweed.
For those on bump watch, no pictures of the bump but I can tell you that it's getting obvious. On one hand it's a drag to be super limited in my clothing choice every morning when I get up (maternity pants are still a bit big, I hope they fit soon!) but it is fun to actually start to look a little pregnant now. I'm sure in a month or two that will have worn off, but I'm enjoying it for now. No kicks yet, but I'm hoping anytime now.
Tuesday, February 6, 2007

Northern Ireland and the Big News






After more than a month I'm finally back in the computer groove! We announced some big news to many of our friends and family over the holidays, Travis and I are expecting our first child this summer. We're both quite excited!


We returned to Dublin the first week of January, a much less eventful trip back here then we had headed west for the holidays. A major blizzard in Denver delayed us in Chicago for several days, but we were lucky and made it home just before Christmas. After settling back in in Dublin we excitedly looked forward to a visit from Travis' mom, Penny. She's here now on a three week vacation, with about one week left to go.

While Penny is visiting we did another Vagabond Tour, this time of Northern Ireland and the north of the Republic of Ireland. Many of you may remember we did a Vagabond tour back in August to the west of Ireland. This trip was much smaller, just four of us, and became otherwise known as the 'Fluffy sheep and crumbling wall, al fresco wee wees, and "Where the hell is Dave?!" trip.'


After getting away from the greater Dublin area, one of our first stops was the Bloody Bridge in the Mourne Mtns near the town of Newcastle in Co Down, Northern Ireland.
The exact reason for the name of the bridge has been lost in the mists of time, but various authorities will attribute it to massacre in the area about the time of the 1641 Rebellion. There is a path nearby which is the beginning of what is known locally as the "Brandy Pad", which in years gone by was the route along which smugglers used to bring barrels of brandy into County Down. Ships would secretly land the barrels near the Bloody Bridge at dead of night, and teams of smugglers would carry them through the mountains to Hilltown about ten miles away. From there the brandy would be distributed all around Ireland.
Legananny Dolmen in County Down, Northern Ireland. Dolmens can be found throughout Ireland, they are appx 5000 years old and predate the pyramids at Giza in Egypt. It's believed that they are a type of tomb, under many dolmens the remains of ancient people have been found. Engineers should take note of the tiny points on which the top stone rests. It's absoultely stable and the point of contact on one stone is only about an inch square.
There is a legend attached to the dolmens all around the island. Grania, an Irish princess, was betrothed to Fionn Mac Cool, an older king. However, she fell in love with Dermott, a handsome young warrior, and they ran away. Finn pursued the lovers across Ireland for years. Legend is they lovers slept on the dolmens, making them magical places even today.

We made it all the way to Belfast for lunch, and after lunch we went on a black cab tour. A local cab driver takes you to various points around the city to view politcal murals and the divisions of the city. The wall pictured here is called the 'Peace Wall' and divides the Protestant neighborhoods from the Catholic ones.
As you can see the wall has been added on to several times, the lower level is concrete, the middle layer is corrugated steel, and the top is wire fencing. Our driver told us that the fencing was a recent addition, as in the last couple of weeks. It really drove home to us that while the Troubles have definitely subsided there are still major cultural differences that are unresolved. The wall also includes automatic gates which close at 6pm every night and remain closed all weekend long.

Another short hike, just along a coast road. Penny's goal for the trip was to see 'fluffly sheep and crumbling stone walls.' We were on a quiet stretch of road with loads of sheep and walls, so Dave let us out to wander and explore on our own for a while. It was at this point in the trip that Emily was pretty sure Dave had abandoned us. We were watching him drive away, and you could see the road for several miles in the distance. However, while in the middle of conversation, she and I both looked up and couldn't see the truck anywhere! Emily blurted out, 'Where the HELL is DAVE!' Moments later he emerged from around a small bend in the road, but for a moment we all thought we might be in for a really long hike!

Continuing north we headed towards the Giants Causeway. Dave suggested (read strongarmed me) into doing a gentler and shorter hike in while all non-pregnant travelers do the long hike in.
This is about where Dave and I met up with the 3 super hikers. Travis was pretty sure that Dave was letting me stand too close to the edge of the cliff. As you can hopefully see from the photo there are 2 little specks that look like their toes are hanging over the cliff, that's me in the blue and Dave in the black. It was a little payback for all the times Travis perches in treacherous places and I stand there holding my breath! (don't worry, we weren't as close to the edge as it looks).

After Giants Causeway we continued our Northern Ireland adventure with some whiskey tasting at Bushmills and a very political trip though Derry/Londonderry. Our return into the ROI was actually a bit of a relief.
Our first night in ROI was in Ardara, in Co. Donegal, and what an adventure. We met some very colorful locals in what’s quite possibly one of the world’s smallest pubs. Arts and crafts ensued. The next day was full of more amazing scenery, including beautiful beaches and what I think is my favorite spot in all of Ireland, Slieve League.
A quiet night in at Mullagmore was followed up by oozy seaweed baths and a trip to Yeat’s grave. And a stop at the tombs at Carrowkeel (I think this is a favorite of Dave’s ) and some bog jumping.
The north is beautiful, and empty this time of year. I can’t wait to be able to go back.