Northern Ireland and the Big News

After more than a month I'm finally back in the computer groove! We announced some big news to many of our friends and family over the holidays, Travis and I are expecting our first child this summer. We're both quite excited!

We returned to Dublin the first week of January, a much less eventful trip back here then we had headed west for the holidays. A major blizzard in Denver delayed us in Chicago for several days, but we were lucky and made it home just before Christmas. After settling back in in Dublin we excitedly looked forward to a visit from Travis' mom, Penny. She's here now on a three week vacation, with about one week left to go.

While Penny is visiting we did another Vagabond Tour, this time of Northern Ireland and the north of the Republic of Ireland. Many of you may remember we did a Vagabond tour back in August to the west of Ireland. This trip was much smaller, just four of us, and became otherwise known as the 'Fluffy sheep and crumbling wall, al fresco wee wees, and "Where the hell is Dave?!" trip.'

After getting away from the greater Dublin area, one of our first stops was the Bloody Bridge in the Mourne Mtns near the town of Newcastle in Co Down, Northern Ireland.

The exact reason for the name of the bridge has been lost in the mists of time, but various authorities will attribute it to massacre in the area about the time of the 1641 Rebellion. There is a path nearby which is the beginning of what is known locally as the "Brandy Pad", which in years gone by was the route along which smugglers used to bring barrels of brandy into County Down. Ships would secretly land the barrels near the Bloody Bridge at dead of night, and teams of smugglers would carry them through the mountains to Hilltown about ten miles away. From there the brandy would be distributed all around Ireland.
Legananny Dolmen in County Down, Northern Ireland. Dolmens can be found throughout Ireland, they are appx 5000 years old and predate the pyramids at Giza in Egypt. It's believed that they are a type of tomb, under many dolmens the remains of ancient people have been found. Engineers should take note of the tiny points on which the top stone rests. It's absoultely stable and the point of contact on one stone is only about an inch square.
There is a legend attached to the dolmens all around the island. Grania, an Irish princess, was betrothed to Fionn Mac Cool, an older king. However, she fell in love with Dermott, a handsome young warrior, and they ran away. Finn pursued the lovers across Ireland for years. Legend is they lovers slept on the dolmens, making them magical places even today.

We made it all the way to Belfast for lunch, and after lunch we went on a black cab tour. A local cab driver takes you to various points around the city to view politcal murals and the divisions of the city. The wall pictured here is called the 'Peace Wall' and divides the Protestant neighborhoods from the Catholic ones.

As you can see the wall has been added on to several times, the lower level is concrete, the middle layer is corrugated steel, and the top is wire fencing. Our driver told us that the fencing was a recent addition, as in the last couple of weeks. It really drove home to us that while the Troubles have definitely subsided there are still major cultural differences that are unresolved. The wall also includes automatic gates which close at 6pm every night and remain closed all weekend long.

Another short hike, just along a coast road. Penny's goal for the trip was to see 'fluffly sheep and crumbling stone walls.' We were on a quiet stretch of road with loads of sheep and walls, so Dave let us out to wander and explore on our own for a while. It was at this point in the trip that Emily was pretty sure Dave had abandoned us. We were watching him drive away, and you could see the road for several miles in the distance. However, while in the middle of conversation, she and I both looked up and couldn't see the truck anywhere! Emily blurted out, 'Where the HELL is DAVE!' Moments later he emerged from around a small bend in the road, but for a moment we all thought we might be in for a really long hike!

Continuing north we headed towards the Giants Causeway. Dave suggested (read strongarmed me) into doing a gentler and shorter hike in while all non-pregnant travelers do the long hike in.

This is about where Dave and I met up with the 3 super hikers. Travis was pretty sure that Dave was letting me stand too close to the edge of the cliff. As you can hopefully see from the photo there are 2 little specks that look like their toes are hanging over the cliff, that's me in the blue and Dave in the black. It was a little payback for all the times Travis perches in treacherous places and I stand there holding my breath! (don't worry, we weren't as close to the edge as it looks).

After Giants Causeway we continued our Northern Ireland adventure with some whiskey tasting at Bushmills and a very political trip though Derry/Londonderry. Our return into the ROI was actually a bit of a relief.
Our first night in ROI was in Ardara, in Co. Donegal, and what an adventure. We met some very colorful locals in what’s quite possibly one of the world’s smallest pubs. Arts and crafts ensued. The next day was full of more amazing scenery, including beautiful beaches and what I think is my favorite spot in all of Ireland, Slieve League.
A quiet night in at Mullagmore was followed up by oozy seaweed baths and a trip to Yeat’s grave. And a stop at the tombs at Carrowkeel (I think this is a favorite of Dave’s ) and some bog jumping.
The north is beautiful, and empty this time of year. I can’t wait to be able to go back.